Pets Breeding Basic

Over time, it has become increasingly apparent that we need to watch what we eat in order to maintain a healthy lifestyle and reduce the effects of aging and diseases in the body. Our pets are in the same position as we are. By eating foods that are hard to digest, full of chemicals or contain little nutritional value, we are reducing the quality and the length of life of mans best friend.

Just imagine if we were to live on a diet completely made from synthetic materials and empty calories, or what we would call junk food. Because of this lifestyle, our health would suffer. We would be more likely to suffer from disease and reduce our lifespan considerably. The same applies to our pets, and often without our knowing it, we are the main cause of this problem.

Buying dog foods from the supermarket shelf is much the same as buying junk food for us; many dog foods contain chemical and flavor enhancers, the food which is often poor in quality, and most definitely not suitable for human consumption.

The process in which many dog foods are made includes rigorous cooking techniques, which destroys the natural colorings and flavors in the food. The result is that your pet may be eating artificial colors and flavors as well as missing out on the nutritional value of quality wholesome ingredients needed to live a healthy life.

The best way to find out what it is you are feeding your pet is to investigate the ingredients that are in the dog food; the first five ingredients listed on the label are the main content of the food. If the dog food contains by-products this is usually parts of animals that are low in protein and not really good for your pet, for example, ground feet, bones and intestines.

Look out for chemical preservatives used to keep the food from spoiling; these are often called BHA and BHT. Grains, such as corn, wheat, gluten, and soy are also very difficult for your pet to digest, and are used as a protein source, instead of meat products.

Ideally, a pet food should contain wholesome ingredients that are easy for your pet to digest; the main ingredient should be meat, quality meat that is fit for human consumption. Vegetables, anti oxidants, bacteria cultures, and protenated minerals should also be high on the list. Grains are not ideal for pets, with the exception of whole grain brown rice, which is easy for your pet to digest as well as helping to promote a healthy coat.

All of these impressive ingredients are useless, unless a proper technique free of colorings and flavorings are used. Pet food should be cooked in a way that locks in the protein, minerals, and fibers right from the start, without the need for artificial ingredients to be added.

Your pet deserves the chance to live a healthy lifestyle, just the same as its owners do. By providing nutritional, healthy wholesome premium dog and cat food for your pet, you can show your best friends how much you really care for them.

More than 50 million people in the United States have pets, and pet supply stores are competing to get their fair share of this lucrative market. If you are a pet owner, this is great news. Pet supply stores are continually improving their products and services, and you can choose from among many of them the right one for you.

Free delivery. You love your pet, but sometimes, you just don't have time to drop by a pet store to buy food and supplies. No problem - you can have everything delivered right to your doorstep. Most pet supply stores now offer free delivery of the freshest pet food and newest supplies. Steer clear of the inconvenience of pet supply shopping, or running out of pet food. Just order either online or from a catalog.

All-natural pet food products. People are becoming more health-conscious, even with their pets. That is why some pet supply stores now claim to only carry naturally-preserved pet food that do not contain artificial coloring, ingredients or byproducts. Some pet supply stores limit their selection only to pet foods that have passed complete feeding tests ongoing quality assurance checks.

Carefully-chosen pet supplies. There are now many pet supply stores that only sell 100 percent safe and non-toxic pet supplies, especially for dogs. These stores have only clinically-proven safe pet shampoos, creams and medicine in stock. You can also buy harmless pet toys and accessories from such stores.

Veterinarians on call. Most pet supply stores now have in-house veterinarians who can help you choose the right products for your pets. These vets are also on-call to help you if your pet suddenly reacts differently to a product. Best of all, these vets are just great sources of free advice. Just pop in the pet supply store and chat with them - you just might get free opinion on common pet problems.

Sled dog breeds are characterized by endurance, strength, and intelligence. They are usually medium to larger dogs, with a very muscular build, and have helped mankind transport supplies in times before the automobile.

Nowadays, sled dog breeds are found as pets, as well as trained to participate in sled dog racing.

Sled dogs were developed to withstand very low temperatures. Their coats have a double layer, with the undercoat acting as insulation against the ice and snow. Because they have such thick coats, they need regular brushing and grooming. They also shed a lot, especially at the beginning of summer when they lose a lot of their undercoat. This could be a problem for people with dog allergies.

Traditional sled dog breeds include the Siberian Husky, the Alaskan Malamute, the Chinook, the Sakhalin Husky, the Canadian Eskimo dog, the Seppala Siberian sled dog, the Tamaskan husky, the Samoyed, the Eurohound, the Mackenzie River husky, and the Greenland dog.

Whilst these dogs were purpose bred, many other breeds have been used, including mixed breeds. These days, that tradition lives on in sled dog racing, where the most popular breeds include the Alaskan Husky, and various cross breeds, often based on the German Shorthaired Pointer. However, many breeds have been used, including the poodle!

Alaskan huskies are favored in modern sled dog races because they are faster than traditional breeds like the Alaskan malamute or the samoyed. They are not as strong, but in sled dog racing where speed is important, and the distances are shorter, Alaskan huskies were found to perform better.

Alaskan husky dogs are not a recognized breed. They are bred for their performance, and so they cannot be easily characterized as a breed. Alaskan husky dogs represent a variety of types with different lines. They are hybrid dogs - a husky with another breed, that is determined by the needs and ideas of the breeders. A husky may be bred with a wolf, setters, or any other breed that can bring genetic advantages in speed and endurance.

Sled dog racing is a winter and fall sport where the sled dogs are attached to a sled (or a 3 or 4 wheeled cart in autumn), and pull the driver along. The driver stands on runners. The dogs are harnessed individually, with tug lines attached that are linked into a central gang line. The dogs are linked in pairs, and there are up to 22 dogs in a racing team. Teams race either against the clock, and a winner then announced, or against each other in a seemingly chaotic race. There are dog sled races in three categories - short distance, middle distance, and long distance.

Like the sled dog breeds themselves, the sport of sled dog racing has seen some interesting adaptions to modern times and different climates. In Australia, for example, where there is very little snow, even in winter, sled dog races are held. Here, modified scooters are used, and racing is done on dirt tracks. Australian sled dog racers tend to use all sorts of dogs as sled dogs, including kelpies, english pointers, and red heelers.

Rebecca Prescott presents this dog information site, with articles on the Alaskan Malamute breed, and Siberian Husky dogs

He might not be the best looking fish, but the the Chinese Algae Eater is certainly the hardest working. If you are battling algae in your aquarium, this little fish can help clean it up in no time at all!

The Chinese Algae Eater (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri) is not striking in appearance, he is a light brown with a dark stripe down the back. His mouth is located underneath which is typical of a loach and this placement helps him to grip onto rocks and things so he can remain in place in the current. In your tank you will often see his underbelly as he hangs on to the glass eating the algae and acting as a fast and efficient tank cleaner. While it may seem like one fish cannot do the job, believe me you will be surprised as he can literally clean up your tank overnight, and keep it clean.

In the fish store, you will find mostly young Chinese Algae eaters that are about ½ inch to 1 inch in size. Even for this small size you will find that they eat an amazing amount of algae. Young fish will pretty much just go about their business, but older ones can be territorial so it is not advisable to have more than one Chinese algae eater in your tank.

This tropical fish thrives in most aquariums and his optimum temperature is between 77 and 82 degrees. They can probably tolerate lower temps, but if your tank gets below 69 degrees, the Chinese Algae Eater will stop eating so be sure to keep the tank warm so that your little living vacuum will keep doing his job.

Eating a herbivorous diet, your algae eater will need, of course, lots of algae in the tank so you will need to be sure that the tank gets light in order for the algae to grow. If it seems like he is not getting enough food, or you want to give him something different you can hang a bit of lettuce or spinach on the side of the tank.

You may find that your Chinese Algae Eater hangs around mostly at the bottom of the tank, and that is where he is most comfortable. Of course, he will scour the tank regularly for algae so you will also see him on your rocks, decorations and sides. Although rather small at first, this fish can actually grow to 11 inches so you might want to be sure you have enough room to house him as an adult!

The Chinese Algae Eater can be purchased at your local aquarium store and is readily available. If the salesperson doesn't know what a Chinese Algae Eater is, then try asking for an Indian Algae Eater or a Sucking Loach which are other names for this interesting fish.

So if you want a fish that is more practical than pretty and that will do your cleaning for you without asking for a weekly wage, the Chinese Algae Eater is a sure bet!

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Foster and Rescue, claim that dogs bite more than 4.7 million people every year in the United States.

The blame could be the dog's, the owner's, or the victim's. But the one who invariably pays, is the owner. The owner of the dog becomes responsible for paying for the medical bills, time lost from work as well as pain and suffering. The one who suffers most, is the dog that is abandoned in a shelter or disposed of.

Dog owners should assume more than their share of the responsibility for protecting people and other animals from their dogs, and also assume the responsibility to protect their dogs from people. Kids will run up to a dog screaming in delight and frighten the dog. A dog in his excitement to greet someone may jump up and scratch him or her. A passer-by may approach a dog aggressively or provoke him. Neighborhood kids may let the dogs out just to have some fun.

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk:

• Spay or neuter your dog. This important and routine procedure will reduce your dog's desire to roam and fight with other dogs, making safe confinement an easier task. Spayed or neutered dogs are much less likely to bite.

• Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.

• Train your dog. Accompanying your dog to a training class is an excellent way to socialize him and to learn proper training techniques. Training your dog is a family matter. Every member of your household should learn the training techniques and participate in your dog's education. Never send your dog away to be trained; only you can teach your dog how to behave in your home. Note that training classes are a great investment even for experienced dog caregivers.

• Be alert with your dog around children. Rambunctious play may startle your dog, and he may react by snapping or biting. Neighborhood children may be attracted to your dog, so make sure you have a child-proof lock on your gate and there is no way for little hands to get through the fence.

• Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Never teach your dog to chase after or attack others, even in fun. Your dog can't always understand the difference between play and real-life situations. Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior.

Don't wait for an accident.

The first time he exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.

• Be a responsible dog owner. License your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone's safety, don't allow your dog to roam alone. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied on a chain often become dangerous. Dogs who are well socialized and supervised are much less likely to bite.

• Stay on the safe side. If you don't know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.

I thought you said your dog doesn't bite? "That's not my dog" ... says Peter Sellers.

Seriously, if your dog bites someone, act responsibly; take these steps to mitigate the harm:

• Confine your dog immediately and check on the victim's condition. If necessary, seek medical help.

• Provide the victim with important information, such as the date of your dog's last rabies vaccination.

• You should cooperate fully with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian's hospital. Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.

• Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again. Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal behaviorist or a dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services.

If you have to let your dog go, don't drop him off at a shelter, where he will only be given a few days to live. Take the time to find him a new family. To do this there is a support and training network called MuttShack, at http://www.Muttshack.org, who will teach you how to re-home your pet.

• If your dog's dangerous behavior cannot be controlled, and you have to make the painful decision to give him up, do not give him to someone else without carefully evaluating that person's ability to protect your dog and prevent him from biting. Because you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any damage he does even when he is given to someone else.

• Never give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog. "Mean" dogs are often forced to live miserable, isolated lives, and become even more likely to attack someone in the future. If you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control agency or humane society about your options. Be safe, be responsible and most importantly, teach your dog to be a good canine citizen.

• Your dog lives to make you happy. If he understands what you need from him, he will make you proud.

About Muttshack:
Muttshack Foundation is a 501(c) 3 non-profit, a project of the National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.

Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, rehabilitate and nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them quality, permanent new families.

By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy animals in overcrowded shelters.

Donations Saves Lives. Visit animals online who are in danger of being put to sleep at http://www.muttshack.org. Join us in preventing animals from entering shelters that kill. Support Muttshack Animal Foster and Rescue Foundation, at http://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD.

It was 1900 when Houston got its first park, the Kellem-Noble land backing against the Buffalo Bayou on the edge of town. Sam Houston Park at Bagby and Lamar streets was soon landscaped into a Victorian delight with an old mill, a stream, a rustic bridge, and walking paths. Since 1954 the park has been the home of The Heritage Society that preserves eight historic structures here in the menacing shadow of surrounding skyscrapers. The 19-acre park is a welcome spot to lounge with your dog in downtown Houston.

To stretch out and hike with your dog the call is Brazos Bend State Park, 35 minutes to the southwest. This area at a wide bend in the Brazos Biver is the site of Texas founder Stephen F. Austin's first colonial land grant from Mexico in 1822. Five years later the land was deeded to Abner Harris and William Barrett who used the advantageous river location to ship cotton. In the years before the state of Texas purchased the land cattle grazed here, pecans were harvested and private hunting parties prowled the woods and swamps. Brazos Bend State Park - one of the largest in Texas with 4,987 acres - opened in 1984.

This is easy, relaxing canine hiking. There is scarcely any elevation change over 20 miles of single-track multi-use trails and old fire roads. The footpaths are often wide and almost univer- sally well-maintained.

An easy leg-stretcher at Brazos Bend is the Creekfield Lake Nature Trail, a paved half-mile trot through the wetlands. One of the most popular canine hikes in the park is the 4.5-mile White Oak Trail through a thick forest of willows, sycamores, cottonwood and oaks decked out in Spanish moss. The confluence of Big Creek and the Brazos River calls up the deepest of Louisiana bayous.

One of the prime attractions of Brazos Bend State Park is its alligators. The park features six lakes and numerous water-filled depressions that can house an alligator. There are an estimated 250 gators over 6 feet long in the park's waters. Some of the best places to spot America's largest reptiles are on the trails along the biggest lakes - Elm Lake and 40-Acre Lake. Spring and fall are when they are most active. Although no one has ever been killed by an American alligator in Texas and a gator can go a whole year without eating, you will still want to keep your dog close in Brazos Bend State Park.

For a change of pace, take the dog onto the Prairie Trail that penetrates swamplands and upland coastal grass prairies. This is prime habitat for avian-loving canine hikers.

Brazos Bend State Park is reached by traveling approximately 20 miles southeast of Richmond on FM 762, or by traveling south from Houston on State Highway 288 to Rosharon, then west on FM 1462.

copyright 2006

Doug Gelbert is the author of over 20 books, including The Canine Hiker's Bible. To subscribe to his FREE Newsletter on hiking with your dog and receive a copy of Rules for Dogs in 100 of the Most Popular National Park Service Lands, visit http://www.hikewithyourdog.com In the warmer months he leads canine hikes for hikewithyourdog.com tours, guiding packs of dogs and humans on hiking adventures. Tours, ranging from one-day trips to multi-day explorations, visit parks, historical sites and beaches.

In addition to all the commands your dog has now mastered, you may want to teach him a few that will make him the entertainment In the neighborhood. He will be much easier to train for these commands now that he has mastered so many tricks.

1. Dance. This trick may actually be helpful when your dog has a hard time with the "Off" command when he's jumping on people. Sometimes dogs respond well to replacement behavior, and teaching him how to dance is a great way to put all that energy to work.

Each time your pet gets excited and is jumping around you, command "Dance" while you gently take and hold his front legs, forcing him to stand on his hind legs. Sway him from right to left a little. Praise him, give him a treat, and gently put him back on the floor.

2. Pray. The object is to have your dog put his head down between his paws on the command "Pray," or "Say your prayers," and all of your friends and family to say, "Awwww! How cute!"
Begin by sitting in a chair with your dog in the "Sit/Stay" position in front of you. Put a treat on the chair between your legs. Command your dog to "Pray," then encourage him or place both of his paws on the chair while he remains in the "Sit" position.

Use the "Leave it" or "Don't touch" command so he doesn't eat the treat, and then give him the "Pray" command. Your dog should stick his nose down to the treat between his paws. Command the release, "Amen," then give your dog the treat and praise him. For smaller dogs, or if your larger dog doesn't get the chair route, you may want to use a low table. You can stand behind him to guide his paws to the table

3. Sneeze. You can train your dog to sneeze on command. You'll do it with a hand signal, which is cupping your hands around your nose and mouth and commanding, "Sneeze!"

Sit in a chair, and put your dog in the "Sit/Stay" position. Cup your hands around his muzzle, say sneeze and gently blow into his nostrils. Keeping blowing until he sniffles or sneezes, then give him praise and a treat. Some dogs take quickly to this trick, while others may take some time.

4. Turn out the light. Amaze your family and friends with your energy-conscious dog! To prepare for the trick, be sure your dog can reach the light switch on his back legs. If not, you can train your dog to jump on a table under the light switch to perform this feat.
Hold a treat at the light switch, and command "Turn out the light!" When your dog jumps up to get the treat, make sure his paws touch the top of the switch so that when he comes down he turns off the light. Reward with the treat and verbal praise.

Once he gets that down, stand away from the light switch and issue the command. Toss the treat nearby when he jumps up and paws at switch. Be sure to give him lots of verbal praise. Eventually you won't need to give him a treat to perform the trick.

5. Bow. This is a good trick to teach your dog when you're working on the "Down" command. Put your dog in the "Stay" position, and put a treat in your hand. Kneeling in front of your dog, move both your hands toward his front paws while giving the "Bow" command. Your dog will extend his head down to get the treat, putting him in the "bow" position. Work on his bow until you can command him to bow from across the room.

6. Counting: Your dog, with time and patience, can learn to count. Because this is a complicated maneuver, there is a prerequisite - your dog must know the "Speak" trick and be commanded to stop with the release word, "OK." All you do at that point is plug in a number to the command, "What is six, Laska?" When your dog counts to six, you command him to stop with "OK."
There is a catch, however - timing is involved. If you don't combine the "What is" command with a subtle signal, your dog will start to bark before you say the number. When you start training him, make a noticeable signal, like a deep nod of your head, when you give the "Speak" command. Nod your head deeply when you give the "OK," release command, too.

You'll need to practice the trick for some time until your dog is trained to respond to the nods alone. Once he has it down, slowly make your nodding more subtle. Once your dog performs the trick with just the most subtle of nods, you're ready for Broadway.

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp' The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

My cat has trained me well. His name is Bear. He was given to me as a birthday present and barn-warming gift six years ago. I didn't really want or need a cat at the time, so I accepted the gift on a contingency basis; the contingency being, can he catch mice? The first hour at the farm he caught a rat, in the horse barn, almost as big as he was. Bear was only six months old. I decided he earned his keep for the rest of his life, so he stayed.

People who know me are fully aware that I am a sentimental slush when it comes to animals, so all my friends were taking bets as to how long it would take before Bear started living in the house. Our veterinarian won the bet. He said two weeks.

Hunter by day and snoozer by night, Bear caught rodents in the barn, and dozed by the fireplace or slumbered on our bed at night. When winter snowstorms hit, he decided that going up to the barn was too much of a struggle. The snow gets pretty deep in upstate New York, so I drove him up to the barn in my pick-up truck when I went to feed the horses in the morning.

Keep in mind, there was a heated tack room in the barn to which Bear had access, with plenty of cat food and water. Oh yes, and a sofa with pillows. In late afternoon, I picked him up and drove him back down to the house. Am I the only person who drives her cat to and from work?

We sold the farm, but Bear still catches rodents in the back yard, in the woods, and around the flower gardens. He loves going for a ride in the pick up truck, so I accommodate his taste for travel by touring the countryside while he looks out the window.

At six years old, Bear continues to be an avid hunter with an insatiable obsession for our toilet bowl. Have you ever wondered why cats like to drink out of the toilet bowl? Our veterinarian said, "It's because they have little kitty cat brains", so he doesn't know the answer either.

There is no scientific explanation whatsoever for this feline preoccupation with toilet bowls. If anyone can come up with a reason for this phenomenon let me know. I hate to lose anymore sleep over this. It keeps me awake laughing.

Speaking of laughing, just for giggles, we've nicknamed Bear "the tidy bowl man", an appropriate moniker for this tough but loveable feline.

Copyright © 2005 by Pamela Beers All rights reserved.

Pamela Beers is a freelancee writer and educator who is a platinum ezine article expert. You can visit her website at http://www.pamelabeers.com for writing and marketing tips.

Everyone is surely going to get excited when trying to adopt a dog. Truly a man's best friend, you can rely on your pet dog in giving you company, cuddling up together and some can even guard your house. You need to review your personal lifestyle and needs when adopting a dog. It is a major decision whether or not you would choose to have a puppy or an adult as a pet. Before deciding on which dog to adopt, here is some useful information that might help you decide.

On Puppies

* Bringing up a puppy is an advantage because this means that you would guide its growth and well being. You would have the chance to raise it up according to what you want. This means you can ensure that it is properly nurtured with the right dog food, ensure that necessary dog shots are given and prevent heartworm at this early stage. Having your puppy personally trained is also a plus since you can teach him exactly what you want.

* You should adopt a puppy when it is at least 10 weeks old. Puppies need a lot of time to be cared for by their mothers. This is a crucial stage for them. They somehow gain a psychological advantage for both puppy and for the mother dog as well.

* A puppy can easily adjust to new surroundings as compared to an adult dog. Although most puppies may cause minimal to major damage to your personal stuff while they are in the stage of teething. They need to be housebroken and house training needs a lot of time, effort and patience from the owner.

* There is no assurance of what a puppy would look like when it gets old; especially if it is a mixed breed. Also, his temperament might change when he grows up.

* Most pet owners love how puppies can be entertaining. They are very cute and adorable pets that is a hit for both children and grown ups. Puppies can be easily regarded as one of the family.

On adult dog

* You would have less of a fuss taking care of an adult dog. They already have this established behavior that you can easily adopt too. By being with the dog more often, you would have more or less an idea of what its temperament is.

* You need to get as much information that you can when adopting an adult dog. Take note of its habits and mood swings. You can acquire information from the previous owners of the dog. Some adult dogs may have some behavior issues. It is important to take note of them.

* It may take some time and effort for an adult dog to be completely comfortable with a new owner.

* Take note that you need to introduce an adult dog to your children and other household members. This would help the dog be familiar with them and helps them refrain from biting or barking thinking that they maybe strangers.

* Adult dogs may not need your full attention unlike puppies need and would require lesser trips to the veterinary.

* For a fully grown dog physique and behavior is basically not a variable anymore. What you see is basically what you get.

* Most dogs are housebroken already so they would cause lesser damage to your belongings and don't wake up at night like most puppies do. Usually, they have grown out of the impulse of chewing things.

* An older dog can easily adapt to other pets, like other dogs or cats, if you have a group of them at your household.

Adopting a dog is not an easy task and choosing which one to adopt can be a little tricky too. Everyone loves sweet looking puppies, but not everyone can stand up to the tiresome house training. Though most would appreciate the bonding shared with them.

Adult dogs need no great amount of guidance but can still turn out to be a lovable pet. Whichever you think is the right pet for you, just keep in mind that taking care of them requires a lot of time and effort. In return, they would always keep you company and has ready smile with an excited wag of tail waiting for you everyday.

Bill McRea is the publisher of Knowninfo a premium website dedicated to providing Information, Marketing Strategies and Quality eBooks. Visit our site daily for updated information, and unique products.

Without agility, the most muscular person in the world couldn't win a fight against a fifth-grader. But did you know that for a dog agility is possibly even more important? With so many of a dog's happiest moments spent running, jumping, catching, and stretching, dog agility training can really help dogs age gracefully and happily.

What is dog agility training?

You've probably seen dog agility training on television. The dogs run a course of tire hoops, tunnels, seesaw, dog walk plank, jumps, hurdles, weaving poles, and a 3-meter A-frame. Heeling, sitting, down stays, send-aways as well as walking off leash are also included.

Who can participate?

Anyone with a dog can do agility training. There is not age limit for people or dogs. In fact, children and puppies are encouraged to take part. All breeds and sizes of dogs without a physical disability can benefit from agility training. Be sure to check with your vet before you begin agility training if you have any doubts about your canine's fitness.

What equipment is needed?

You as the handler will need comfortable shoes and clothes that you can run in, because this is not exercise for the dog alone. Your dog needs a leather or webbed buckle collar and a leather, nylon or rope lead of fairly long length. Do not use a chain lead; it could get caught in the jumps.

Agility Training Courses for Dogs

There are two sides of agility training for dogs. They are the obstacles and the control training. There are also tips for training your dog. Obstacles. Although it seems high to many handlers, the A-frame is the best obstacle to begin training. The dog walk plank, low jump and the tunnel (dogs love this obstacle) are also excellent for training the novice dog.

Control training is important to keep your dog disciplined both on the agility course and off. Everybody knows that a dog must heel and sit. You must also teach your dog to know and obey different commands: to go left and right, lay down, and wait. After those are mastered, the dog must learn normal recall (returning anytime you call) and recall over obstacles. Also important is the "send away" command, making the dog go ahead you.

Tips for Dog Agility Training

Begin training by getting your dog's attention. Talk to him and offer a small treat. Coupled with the love he has for you, he'll be all ears. Be sure you have the correct lead (generally 6 feet) and a comfortable collar (measure the dog's neck and add 2 inches) for your dog. Give praise often. "Tune in" to your dog to be sure she and you are ready to train.

Here's a final tip: make sure that you and your dog enjoy yourselves. After all, jumping through hoops is supposed to be fun--at least if you're a dog.

If you love dogs and puppies, visit I-Love-Dogs.com now! You can get, free dog email, send a free dog postcard, learn about the different dog breeds and so much more!

Bottom water fish are those that prefer living at the lowest level of the aquarium. It's not that they can't swim into the upper regions, they will when spurred by a fish that pesters them, or just for the sake of a quick dash around the tank. But for the most part, they live on the bottom, which is where most of their food comes from.

Tropical fish that prefer the bottom of the tank, usually eat algae that grows there, as well as leftover food that falls on the substrate or the broad leaves of some plants. In a way, the bottom water fish are the housekeepers of your aquarium, cleaning up scraps and preventing the build up of algae. But this is not always a sufficient diet, and they need to be given food that comes in a form or shape specifically designed to reach, and appeal to the bottom feeder.

This is usually a wafer shape, dense enough that it sinks past the top and middle feeders, to rest on the bottom and soften. The bottom feeders can then browse at their leisure, returning later to clean up the remains. In that respect, they are not like top and middle feeders, where food is given a pinch at a time, and feeding should stop as soon as they lose interest. Those tropical fish that hang around the bottom tend to be "grazers", and not the gulpers that you'll find dashing for the surface when they see you coming.

Some of the better-known bottom water fish are the loach, and catfish. There are also algae eaters, Botia, Corys, Knifefish and the more unusual specimens like Goby and Needle Nose.

Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com

I read the book many years ago now. "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" A moving book, full of wisdom and love, it is a wonderful read.

It takes you on a journey, through philosophy, life, questions of quality and quantity, in an entertaining and gentle cross country journey.

So what has the book to do with keeping reptiles? Lots actually. But I only want to deal with one of the many ideas in the book. The idea of engaging yourself fully in an activity and paying attention to details. The Zen of keeping reptiles.

The author and journeyman, Robert Pirsig, looks after his motorcycle on the journey by paying attention to details and doing the maintenance and the little things regularly and enveloping himself in the activity and the moment as he does so. So it should be with your reptiles.

Spot cleaning your cages every day will make looking after the cages much easier. I keep a small spray bottle next to the cages, along with paper towels. This means I can clean up any fecal matter straight away. I can also spray this or any urine and clean it off there and then. This simple procedure means that cleaning the cages is much easier when I do a full clean out and disinfect. At the moment the bottle is pure water as I also use it to spray the bearded dragon's greens but I think I might make a separate one with a mild detergent mix - better not confuse them.

Water is checked daily and the water bowls given a wash and clean out weekly (or daily if there is any fecal matter or contaminants in the bowl). I am lucky enough to have filtered water available so this reduces the growth of moulds and algae in the water bowls significantly as the water has no nutrients. But only if I thoroughly clean the water bowls.

A scrubbing brush is important when cleaning the water bowls and the cage furniture. The artificial rock material that the bowls are made of will collect algae, urine, feces and moulds in all of the crevices, so a scrubbing brush will allow you to get as much as this a removed as possible.

Also, using bleach to disinfect it on a regular basis (or if it has fecal matter on it) is important. Make sure you thoroughly rinse the bowls and other cage furniture with fresh water once you have cleaned them. There are a number of commercial reptile cage cleaning materials on the market if you want to use these as well, but to date I have not had to use any of these.

Regularly examine you reptiles closely. Get them out and look carefully at them, all over. Examine their eyes, their mouths, their body and their cloaca (snakes rear end used for waste and reproductive discharges). If you have lizards, check the feet carefully. Look for anything unusual. If you examine you reptile regularly, you will more than likely readily notice anything unusual, as you have looked thoroughly at them before. Remember to treat them gently while doing this to keep your trust with your pet and not give them fright if you can avoid it.

Paying attention to details is important. You will appreciate your fascinating friend much more when you look closely and see how fantastic and interesting they really are.

Make sure the food you are feeding your reptile is in good condition and if it is vegetable matter, make sure it is fresh. You wouldn't eat two week old, limp, or slimy bok choi. So why should your lizard? If the food looks bad enough so that you wouldn't want to eat it, don't feed it to your pet. Never re-freeze mice or rats. It's not bait (no wonder I can't catch a fish).

These are just a few things to help you look after your pet. Involve yourself fully in the moment and the activity of care and maintenance and enjoy it for what it is. You'll find you pet reptile much more rewarding.

Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to Build Reptile Enclosures" Find out how to build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions. http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com

Many came to look us over when we were wee golden puffs of fluff
And of their smiles and laughter, well I simply could not get enough
Though I'd miss my siblings and mom, you could have all of the rest
Because being with humans, for me, was just beyond doubt the best

To be in their company, I knew, I would leave all else behind
For thoughts of being with them were always filling my mind
When a young girl and her parents said they had decided on me
There was a smile on my face, and I was bursting with glee

My mom's human kin said, "You'll love him, he's a sweet as can be!"
As my new dad lifted me up, he then said," I certainly hope so. We'll see."
"Here, take his toy," she added, and smiled. "From it he does not stray far."
He sighed, as he tucked it under his arm, then carried me out to their car

When they got home they put me in the backyard with a grizzled little guy
He seemed all bones and fur, and studied me through white-clouded eyes
I stood waiting for him to walk over and check me out, but he was too spent
Too weak to lean forward and give me a sniff; he dropped to the stained cement

The next morning the man came out and gave us each a bowl of dry food
I was hungry; it had been a day since I'd eaten and it sure looked good
But later, as I sat the under the hot, hot sun, I felt bad, then quickly got sick
Afterward, I looked for some water and found only a dripping faucet to lick

I suddenly felt lonely as I looked around... the older dog had fallen asleep
But, in the gravel, oh what a find. My toy! A treasure that was mine to keep
With toy in my mouth, I returned to the dog, he was trembling as he slept
I dropped down beside him, snuggled close, and whimpering softly, I wept

The girl often came out and spent time with us, she loved to bring us treats
But the first thing she'd do is give us each a bowl of fresh, cool water to drink
Those bright days for my dog companion and me, kept us from feeling alone
When we shared those special hours with her, it was then I felt I was home

She'd lovingly hug the small dog tenderly to her, whisper softly in his ear
Then she would turn to me and we'd lose ourselves in happy, happy play
These were the best of days for me, it felt so good just having her near
It seemed all too soon our fun would end--she was never allowed long to stay

Each time before she'd leave, she would caress her scraggly-furred friend
Then she'd hold my head in her hands, saying, "I, too, wish it wouldn't end."
As she gave me my toy she would kiss me, whispering, "Don't be sad!
"You two are my family and I love you. You're the best friends I've ever had."

As the summer weeks went by and warm days made way for the cold
I noticed the little dog had grown thinner. And I saw him quickly grow old
One night he couldn't stop shivering. So I laid next to him to keep him warm
As he leaned into me and sighed his thanks I could tell he was very ill
When morning broke cold and frosty the dog at my side lay so terribly still

He had gone on to Rainbow Bridge and he played now in cool tall grass
I knew he was warm, free, and happy. I licked him once to bid him good-bye
Then the man came out, wrapped him in a bag, and carried him to the trash
I tried to follow. What he did, it seemed so wrong. Then, I heard the girl cry!

Oh, no! I pressed up against the glass. Somebody, please let me in!
I pawed at the sliding door, then I whined and gave a couple good barks
But the man hurried over; pulled shut the blinds and I was forgotten, again

I walked back to the fence, looked across the way, through the slats at a grassy green park
I gazed longingly at the people there with their dogs, and watched them 'til long after dark

The next night the man led me through the gate; out front where I'd never been
Confused and frightened, where nothing was familiar, I ran back to retrieve my toy
It was there, by the door. I was so happy, I wagged my tail, picked it up, and grinned
Warily, I returned to the man. He then kicked me while hissing, "Get outta here, boy!"

I slowly looked around me, I didn't know what to do and I had no where to go
but there in the park, above a stone bench and patch of grass, one bright light shone
I heard the gate close behind me, I looked right and left, then strode across the street
I curled up under the bench thinking of the old dog and the girl, and finally fell asleep

Deep into the rough winter, from country roads to busy towns I did roam
Looking for someone who would take me in, for a place that I could call home
Then came spring and I grew so tired, I became sick and lost track of time
I collapsed in a field of dried grass and dust with no person or place to call mine

Then, through the haze of my fevered dreams, I saw her standing at my side
She was murmuring as she bent down and reached out to cradle my head
"You poor babe! How long have you lain here? Come on, we're going for a ride."
I wagged my tail, kissed her hand, tried to get up, but fell into darkness instead

When I awoke I was on a table, in an examining room, at the office of a vet
The doctor took some blood for tests, checked my heart, my eyes, and my ears

"He's so thin and dehydrated. Where will he be going? Have you decided yet?"
"Yes, I'll foster him at home with me." She hugged me and I felt the wet of her tears

I was at the vet's for a very long time, receiving treatments that would make me well
I had surgery, shots, and pills to take and I can't say I liked all of what they had done
When my foster mom would visit, she'd say with a smile, "You're getting better, I can tell."
On a cool autumn morn she took me to her home, a place, amid hills lit gold by the sun

Wagging my tail I carried it gently then laid in the palm of her hand, my toy
A gift from my heart and all that I'd had to keep me company and give me joy
I wanted her to know that now I would wait with her to find my forever home
It was my way to thank her, for I had no plans or desires at all now to roam

Mine is not the happiest of tales, but it certainly is not the worst
We are a goldmine, if those of you searching would just see our worth

When you look at me now you'll see a smile, and a question in my eyes
Have you a place in your heart and your home for this faded Golden boy?
If you spend some time with me, it shouldn't take you too long to realize
The dog standing there--with his faded, dirty, and beloved old toy...
is so willing for you to take him home, to give him a fresh new start
And given time he is the Golden whose love will capture your heart!

~ Dedicated to all the folks involved in Golden Rescue... Thank you! ~

~~*~~ Copyright © 2004 by Kathy Pippig Harris ~~*~~

With the advent of the global village, airconditioned cars and pet friendly hotels, the average pet may reasonably expect to get further than the local convenience store. The inclination to travel with a pet does however place a burden of responsibility on the owner and some planning is called for.

Irrespective of how far you are going to travel with a pet, there are some basic requirements that you need to consider. Not all of these will apply to all journeys but the relevant ones should be addressed before departure.

1) The comfort and safety of the animal during the trip.

2) Feed and water requirements

3) Environmental Temperature control within the mode of transport.

4) Planned regular "comfort" stops for especially dogs if going by car

5) How you will control the pet during routine stops/unplanned interruptions

6) Relevant paperwork (vaccination certificates, permits etc) if crossing any political boundaries.

International pet travel involves crossing at least one international border and regardless of the method of transport, you need to be aware of some basic requirements that you need to adhere to.

1). The country of destination determines the pet health requirements.

You must therefore establish what these requirements are before you travel with your pet to another country. The requirements will almost certainly include a variety of vaccinations against common diseases and perhaps a veterinary health certificate. This certificate can only be issued by a qualified veterinarian after he/she has examined your pet.

2). Quarantine measures

Some countries will insist that your pet spends some time in quarantine. The purpose of quarantine is to allow the pet to be monitored and to satisfy the authorities that your pet is not carrying any disease.

Most countries have specifically designated quarantine facilities that are registered with the Veterinary authorities. In other words, your pet cannot be held in quarantine just anywhere. In addition, you will be responsible for all boarding costs incurred during the quarantine period.

3) Long distance travel requires some preparation

International Pet travel may sound glamorous, but in reality it will be a stressful undertaking for the pet and as a responsible owner you need to do everything possible to minimise the level of stress.

A thorough health check up and the provision of an approved and correctly labelled pet carrier is a good starting point. Also, if your pet is going to be separated from you for the trip then check out the credentials of the company that will be responsible for your pets health, comfort and safety during the trip.

Keith Perrett is a qualified Veterinarian http://www.pet-health-for-humans.com/pet-travel.html

Having a pet can be one of the greatest joys of life; after all, who wouldn't want something that offers unconditional love, companionship and often an unbiased shoulder to cry on?

Before you run out and purchase your new companion though, there are a few things you should take into account.

With such a wide variety of animals that can become pets: from dogs to cats, birds to fish, rabbits to guinea pigs, horses, mice and the more unusual like snakes and spiders the choice is only limited by your ability to meet each animal's requirements.

The first thing you need to do is take your surroundings and lifestyle into account. Depending on where you live and how much time you have to offer your pet will go a long way to deciding what type of pet you should get. If you don't have a lot of room or keep irregular hours perhaps you should look into a smaller animal: fish, mice or others that don't require as much of your time. If you have a large home or backyard then maybe you can handle a dog or cat etc.

You also need to know who is going to be the primary care giver to your animal, while we all love the idea of watching our children grow up with their dogs, we need to remember that for the most part, you as the parent, will be the person most likely in charge of your pet's welfare. Whoever is chosen as the primary carer will need to be willing to offer the time and requirements needed for the chosen pet.

Money is also a major factor when it comes to deciding what type of pet you are willing to introduce into your family. Not only will the initial purchase of the animal probably cost a certain amount depending on what type of animal, whether it's a pure breed or not, along with other initial costs, you will also need to take into account the food, vet bills (such things as vaccinations, worm tablets, flea treatments etc) any toys or other requirements, if it needs certain training or has other specialised equipment or needs, along with any other odd expenses that might arise.

If you're planning on holidays you will also need to take your pet into account. If you can't take it with you, is there somewhere you can send your pet to receive the care it needs while you are away, or do you have a friend or family member that is willing to come to your home to make sure the pet is fed and exercised etc.?

Once you've taken the above factors into consideration and started to narrow down what type of pet you would like, always do some more research: try to find out exactly what type of needs your pet will have (and while this is particularly important if you're deciding on something a little more exotic it's just as necessary even when considering the more usual pet like a dog or cat etc.) make sure you know where you can get any toys or other equipment (aquariums, specialised food etc) in case you need something in an emergency. If you have young children, make sure the chosen pet is suitable for them: if a dog – will it be able to handle a bit of rough and tumble etc?

These are just a few tips to help you on your way to choosing a pet. No matter what animal you decide to get, know that having a pet is a wonderful and often long-time experience that will provide you with many hours of fun and companionship.

Whether purely for looks or for a bird's home, bird cages can be attractive decorator touches. They can be used as wall hangings, plant holders, centerpieces, and more.

Bird cages are available in many different materials, including wood, acrylic, stainless steel, metal, and iron. They are also available in some unique materials such as bamboo. Decorative bird cages are available in most any style imaginable. There are bird cages representative of most regions of the world—there are Oriental bird cages, Tuscan cages, and Arabian cages. There are also many bird cages featuring various architectural designs, such as domes and arches. Victorian cages are also quite popular. Some decorative bird cages are trimmed in gold or topped in marble. Some feature elaborate scrollwork. Others are even more whimsical, shaped like globes or hot-air balloons.

Some decorative bird cages are purely decorative; others are functional. If you intend to use a decorative cage as a home for your bird, make sure that it is truly designed for that purpose. Do not sacrifice your bird's safety or comfort for style. For example, a tall narrow bird cage may look beautiful, but it doesn't give your bird ample space for moving. A round, globelike cage looks exotic, but it might not give your bird a space for perching. With careful consideration of your bird's needs, it is possible to find a bird cage that is both decorative and functional.

Decorative bird cages are available at department stores and specialty pet stores. They are also available online. Purely decorative cages are available at many retail stores and in a wide range of prices, depending on size and material.

Bird Cages Info provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as covers and stands. Bird Cages Info is the sister site of Dog Beds Web.

History has depicted them as filthy creatures that brought about the Black Plague of the Middle Ages. Hollywood has shown them as vicious killers ready to attack humans at the slightest provocation. Is it any wonder most people are fearful at the mere mention of their name?

How can such a small animal elicit such a huge reaction? But more importantly, do they deserve their reputation?

Before you judge rats, it might help to understand a little bit about them. Everyone knows rats are rodents, but did you know a male rat is called a buck, a female is a doe, and the babies are called pups or kittens? Rats reach puberty at an early age, between 6 to 8 weeks. Their bodies are between 9 and 11 inches long, with a tail up to 9 inches and they come in many different colors and varieties. Rats have an average lifespan of 2 to 3 years and are most active at night.

Now that you know more about them, let's take a look at some of the myths people believe about rats as pets. Maybe you'll see them in a whole new light.

Myth #1
Rats are mindless creatures.

Nothing could be further from the truth. Domesticated rats are intelligent with a natural curiosity which makes them very trainable. They can be taught simple tricks with relative ease and love the interaction of learning. My son has a three year old Blue Fancy rat named Samantha. She quickly learned her name and will come when called. She also learned to play fetch, chasing a small plastic ball when it is rolled away from her on the floor, then rolling it back.

Myth #2
Rats are vicious, dangerous creatures.

Rats are very friendly, social animals. They are easily tamed simply by being handled from a young age. Rats enjoy spending time with their owners; bonding with them much as a dog bonds with a person. They love being petted and being close to their family. Our rat loves to sit on my shoulder while I'm writing at my computer, sometimes falling asleep while she is up there.

Myth #3
Rats are filthy, disease bringing rodents.

In reality, rats are very clean creatures, grooming themselves daily. The sign of a healthy rat is a clean, well-groomed coat. They are not a low maintenance pet, but are much easier to care for than a hamster or larger pet. Replacing the bedding in their cage every week, and making sure they have fresh food and water daily will go a long way to make your furry little friend happy. I've found that rats are orderly animals. Every time Samantha's cage is cleaned she rearranges it to suit her needs. She likes her house, bowls, and toys to be where she wants them.

Myth #4
Rats are not playful.

Rats enjoy interaction with their human owners, requiring daily play time. They need at least an hour outside of their cage every day to play and socialize with their family, as well as toys to play with when you can't be there. The best toys I've found are ones designed for cats. Pick ones that can't be chewed by your rat, because they will chew. Samantha has two plastic balls with bells inside that she plays with. You can hear her at night, rolling those balls around to make the bells ring.

Myth #5
Rats are only nocturnal creatures.

While this is mostly true, it isn't set in stone. Rats will be up when they think you are. Yes they are up at night, but they are also up during the day. They will wake up if they feel that you are ready to play. Taking them out during the day is a great way to train them that daytime is a good time to play. Samantha sleeps during the night and day, but she is always willing to come out during the day and spend some time with me or my son.

Rats can be a great first pet. They are easier to maintain than a dog or cat, and are friendlier than a hamster. With a little understanding your family can reap the benefits of rat ownership too. Give rats a chance. You'll be glad you did.

The first thing to do when searching for a lost dog is to confirm that your dog is actually lost. Dogs, especially curious breeds, can easily find an interesting place in your backyard to investigate for quite some time. Often no amount of calling your dog's name will distract him from finding out what exactly is moving under that bucket by the fence. Search every corner of your residence before venturing out looking for your lost dog.

Once you've determined that your dog has definitely left your residence, don't pack up the whole family in an effort to search for the dog. Often dogs will return soon after their departure. You'll want someone at home to contact the others in the event that your dog wanders back home soon after the search party leaves.

Dogs usually don't go far. They're curious animals that like to look and sniff around. It's more likely for a dog to be a few blocks away than a few miles away. So stick close to home for the first part of your search. Be sure to check all the streets in your neighborhood. Talking to other dog owners you see is a good idea as either their dog or the owner himself might have seen your dog. It's more likely that a dog owner will notice a wandering dog than someone who is not a dog lover.

When searching the neighborhood, be sure to call your dog's name. Your dog can hear you from a great distance. Your dog might be in between houses or behind bushes. Don't rely on just your eyes for finding your dog. If you own a dog whistle or any device that makes a loud noise, it can be used to attract your dog's attention. If you own other dogs, they might be helpful in finding your lost dog. Bring them along for the search so they can alert you if they smell or see something of interest.

Once you've exhausted your physical search, it's time to post lost dog posters, which you can print from our web site. Don't just put the posters on your street; post them at the entrance of your neighborhood and in places people frequent. Community mailboxes are also a good place to post your lost dog poster. People often recognize a lost dog poster when they see one. Although it's important for your poster to be marked with "LOST DOG," it could be more important to emphasize your dog's breed and color. Keep the information simple. Someone who might have found your dog doesn't need to know your dog's favorite food or whether it is spayed or neutered. Name, breed and color are really the only things that someone needs to know when looking for a lost dog. Provide your contact information on the poster; provide your phone number, but not your name or address.

Be sure to call your local veterinary offices and animal emergency clinics to see if anyone has brought in a lost dog. Give them information about your lost dog and take them a poster if you can.

Be sure to visit your local animal control, humane societies, and animal shelters to look for your lost dog. It's quite possible that your pet could end up there and describing your dog over the phone isn't enough to find out of he has been taken in. Again, leave a lost dog poster at these locations so employees can contact you should your dog show up.

Be sure to check the newspaper's classifieds section for Found Pets. These ads usually change daily, so you should check them each day. If your newspaper has a web site, see if you can search these listings online.

Founder of Fido Finder - Where Lost dogs are Found...

There are many reasons why some couples decide to remain childless. Perhaps they feel that their lives are full enough without the responsibility of children or there may be a medical reason that decides for them. In any case, the addition of a small pet can supply a much needed focus for distraction. A pet is a friend without blame, a comic source of entertainment, and a receptacle for motherly (and fatherly) instincts.

One such couple bought a young yellow latino parakeet. Other than changing the automatic roller paper once a day, little Bully Bachman was no trouble at all and provided endless hours of comic antics. Learning early on to mimic the speech of his owners, Bully bird seemed to enjoy greeting his mistress with "Fat wifey, FAT WIFEY!" in the morning. This male taught greeting was followed by whistling Happy Birthday to You and tapping his foot in time. A favorite pastime was watching Bully play soccer with a tightly rolled up ball of foil. Bully would stalk around the cage, eyeing the ball, suddenly side kicking it toward a paper cup. Misses would be followed by a frantic whirlwind of kicking activity, his bowed legs working maniacally. A successful dunk was followed by a mad flapping of wings accompanied by screaming on the top of his avian lungs and performing a squat bob winner's dance. At night he would declare, "It's time to go to bed, good night, good night".

I presented a similar parakeet to my mother on her sixtieth birthday. A recent separation from her marriage partner of thirty years left her moody and sad. This yellow bird was allowed to fly around the house, lighting on any head available. Some guests did not appreciate this feat and panicked at Tweetie's dive bombing techniques. My mother explained that Tweety just liked hair and not to worry. Strict and clean to a fault, she, however, allowed Tweety to peck at the butter on the table, bite her nose, and lay on her back in her hand to be stroked. The therapeutic value of Tweety was not to be minimized. My mother soon became her cheerful self.

Now, parakeets can live quite a long time but are susceptible to various colds, mysterious ills and can die quite suddenly. Unfortunately, Bully Bachman's master passed away first, leaving his wife with a pet parakeet that could mimic her deceased husband's voice to a T. These eerie phrases were treated with a sad shake of the head and a sigh at the memories evoked. But the love she had for her little pet overcame any feelings of sadness.

A retired portrait photographer, I enjoy writing, bicycling and computer graphics.

The Emperor Penguin is the largest penguin in Antarctica, the coldest climate on earth with temperatures as low as 140 degrees. It is very rare to find an Emperor Penguin living outside of Antarctica. . It is 4 feet tall, and it weights 70 to 90 pounds. It has a black head and wings, while its abdomen is white. Baby Emperor Penguins have thick gray feathers, which help absorb heat to keep them warm. The male Emperor Penguin has a broad pouch between its legs and lower abdomen that keeps eggs warm.

They are very sociable creatures that live in colonies from five hundred to twenty thousand penguins; Penguins use a unique way to keep warm in the extremely cold climate, they all huddle close together and the penguin that is in the middle of the group will be the warmest. Once that penguin is warm enough, the other penguins will rotate to let another one take the spot and warm up, away from the icy cold winds. These penguins have well insulated feathers that help keep them cosy in the cold weather.

Unlike other penguins that eat food from the surface, Emperor Penguins like to eat fish from the ocean. They will dive onto the ocean and stay under water for up to 18 minutes and can reach depths of 700 feet or more. Emperor Penguins will swim together, however, they like to catch their food by themselves.

Emperor Penguins are the only creatures that stay in Antarctica when winter arrives in March, while all other species leave. During this time, a female Emperor Penguin will lay just one egg, and then travel out to sea to get food. The male Emperor Penguin will stay with the egg to keep it warm by balancing it on his feet and covering it with his broad pouch which is a very warm layer of feathered skin. The male must stand there for about 65 days though icy temperatures, cruel winds and storms with nothing to eat during the whole time. After the egg hatches, the female penguin returns from the sea with food for the hatched chick, then the male, in his turn, goes out to sea to fish for food, leaving the female to take care of the chick. The mother protects the chick from the extremely cold winds, which could cause it to freeze to death within 2 minutes.

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Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Birds
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Pugs are clowns at heart, known for their silly antics, but they still manage to maintain a sense of dignity. They are known as a lap dog and enjoy lounging around in the company of their human companion, and enjoy daily exercise in the form of a walk. An inside dog, they should never be left out-of-doors for any extended period of time.

The Pug is of Chinese origin. They were prized possessions of the Emperors of China and lived in a most luxurious atmosphere and at times were even guarded by soldiers. The Dutch traders brought the Pugs from the east to Holland and to England where the pug was enjoyed by many Monarchs of Europe.

The American Kennel Club first recognized the breed in 1885. The Pug Dog Club of America was founded in 1931 and recognized by the AKC that same year.

Being a purebred dog, the pug does come with some high maintenance medical issues. Typical medical problems include ear infections, eye problems, mast cell tumors, and skin infections.

Some pugs can suffer from a collapsing trachea or elongated palate making it difficult for them to breathe, especially in hot weather. During the hotter months of the year, it is best to keep your pug in a cool room and avoid walks during the hottest part of the day as they can easily become overheated.

Pug owners in hot climates, besides running the air conditioner, can purchase items such as a cooling body wrap and cooling mat to keep their pug from overheating.

Although the pug comes in a small package, their shedding can be extreme. Be prepared to vacuum or sweep your floors almost daily during the summer when shedding is at its worst and several times a week during the cooler months. Invest in a good lint brush as your clothing will be covered in pug hair also (a minor inconvenience for those of us who love our pugs).

The pug loves food and can easily become overweight if over-indulged with snacks or larger than necessary meal portions. Talk to your vet about your pug's appropriate weight.

Since the pug is susceptible to skin infections, a healthy diet is a must. Choosing a high quality food for your pug will pay off in a healthier dog with fewer visits to the vet (that means no grocery store dog food!). Read your food labels carefully and choose a dog food with more natural ingredients.

Your pug should visit the vet at least once a year for a physical. A blood test at age six is a good idea and can catch many potential health problems allowing early treatment with the appropriate diet or medication.

Pugs make excellent traveling companions and many pug owners take their pugs with them on vacation. Sharing their human's bed is the preferred sleeping arrangement for the pug, although for those who would find this a difficult arrangement, a dog bed next to the bed will be tolerated.

If considering a pug breed, try adopting from a local pug rescue. You can find a pug rescue near you at www.rescuers.com.

Copyright 2006 Carol Stack

I have had a Shih Tzu named Suzi for nearly eleven years. It began as a gift to my daughter and eventually migrated to my house when she moved out at eighteen, college bound, and settled into her own townhouse. I had the large house with a back yard and, therefore, qualified for instant pet adoption status. Not that it was any different than it had been before. She had whined and cajoled for a dog and promised to take care of it. She was eleven at the time and very responsible, according to her own self-evaluation. So we caved in and bought the puppy. And she was really good about taking care of Suzi for the first few minutes or so until Family Ties came on tv that afternoon. I reluctantly took over the feeding and bathing chores. Luckily, we had the foresight to install a doggy door, which substituted for walks. But I still ended up walking her when the weather was good.

I love most animals and Suzi was no exception. We've definitely bonded as she is now in the December of her life. But Suzi has a secret that I discovered purely by accident one day and I thought I would share it with you. You too, may be a pet owner and could use the inside scoop on what happens while you're gone. That's right, it's not always as it seems when you leave them alone. Let me elaborate.

As the years have passed, Suzi tends to sleep more and more. She doesn't play as much and her eyesight is failing. At least, that's what she wants me to think, the sly fox. I began suspecting the subtle change a few years back. As she began slowing down, I discovered a few other changes in behavior. I began to wonder why she was acting as she was. I started reading pet psychology articles and finally put two and two together. It was conclusive that she was saving up her energy, But for what purpose? To bound over the six-foot high back wall fence and escape to freedom? I doubted that. Or could she be planning a takeover of the neighborhood with the other dogs? I never noticed her communicating with them except for the incessant barking of the mutt next door. No, it had to be something else.

I tried to put it out of my mind as I continued her regular routine, which I'll describe. She would get up around ten in the morning and I would place a dog biscuit on her favorite rug and some dry lamb kibble in her dish. After quickly dispatching each, she leapt outside to take care of her "business." Moments later, she would begin a licking procedure that would last about ten minutes. Then it was up on the couch for a nap that lasted until four in the afternoon. It was then she demanded her wet, canned food, and gobbled it up. Another dash outside and she was good until seven-thirty. It was then when she decided it was bedtime and needed an escort to our back bedroom. There she would sleep on the rug by my side until I was ready to sleep. She would then stretch, yawn and claw on my side announcing I should place her at the foot of the bed for the night so we could begin the whole process all over again.

So I started counting her actual waking hours and recognized an interesting fact: she slept a lot. It was that energy-saving facet of her behavior that was driving me crazy. Why did she require all that rest? There had to be an ulterior motive and I would uncover it, and, one day, I did. My wife and I had been gone for the day and I noticed something amiss when we returned.

Sure, Suzi was pretending to be lying on the couch totally comatose, but there was something she hadn't planned. I saw that the pillow that was usually on the couch was now on the floor. Imagine that. And that wasn't all. Her doggy dish had been pushed to one side and her watering bottle was nearly empty. I didn't have to be Sherlock Holmes to detect the implications. My dog was having a party while we were gone. And it was happening more than once.

I saw other signs of excitement around. I saw backyard 'do-do' that didn't even look like hers. She probably had dozens of dogs over to party in our absence. I could picture her propping open the side gate and letting in the brood, Then, they all most likely danced around, being dog-gone wild in our living room, and hence, the askew pillow and such, the sneaky pooch. Then, when she figured we would be returning, whisked the other dogs away and bounded back onto the couch. She had become so adept that her breathing was even shallow by the time we arrived. It was a cute trick and I wondered how she did it.

So now I know what happens when we're gone and I can accept her party ways. I didn't get upset or even let on that I knew what was transpiring. Instead, I allow her the outlet for her pent-up energy knowing that she means no harm. But it's a secret that I surmise is also carried on by millions of other pets around the globe. And it's my civic duty as a bona fide pet-owner to warn everyone else about this behavior. I'm sure you too, have already witnessed similar signs and have questioned your sanity. But, let me assure you, you haven't lost your mind. You simply have a party- animal in the house. But shush, it's a secret.

Jeffrey Hauser was a sales consultant for the Bell System Yellow Pages for nearly 25 years. He graduated from Pratt Institute with a BFA in Advertising and has a Master's Degree from Monmouth University. He had his own advertising agency in Scottsdale, Arizona and ran a consulting and design firm, ABC Advertising. He has authored 6 books and a novel, "Pursuit of the Phoenix," available at http://www.amazon.com. His latest book is, "Inside the Yellow Pages." Currently, he is the Marketing Director for http://www.thenurseschoice.com, a Health Information and Doctor Referral site.

I can't stress enough how important it is to perform GSD socialization and training activities early, and often, in your German Shepherd's life. Go to the park, to as many dog-friendly stores as possible, on errands, etc. Take your GSD puppy with you wherever and whenever you can. And when I say take the GSD puppy with you, I mean take it with you, not leave it in the car while you're in the store.

GSD socialization will occur whenever your puppy is introduced to new situations, new people and animals, and new places. They need to actively participate in socialization for it to really work - that means you must let them safely interact with new people, places and things.

This is definitely a great step in building the GSD puppies confidence and building a more stable temperament - more capable of coping with new and unusual experiences. German Shepherds are highly intelligent and these early GSD socilization lessons, being around new and different stimuli, will make your adult German Shepherd much more stable and confident - and this is exactly what you want.

Your new GSD puppy has spent the first few weeks of it's life with his mother, litter mates and breeders family. Your new GSD puppy may have gone on rides to many new places such as the veterinarian, short shopping errands, and on short training rides. It has probably heard many different kinds of noises: people, horns of cars, birds chirping, children, sounds of traffic, etc. If your German Shepherd puppy was raised in a farm type locale the puppy has probably seen, heard and smelled many different types of animals, larger farm equipment, etc. Other interesting things to introduce your puppy to are: slick floors (tile / linoleum), elevators, stairs and carpeting.

One of your new jobs as the GSD puppy's new owner is to add to all of those past experiences with many other new ones. Ask the breeder what kind of socialization has been done with your puppy and take it from there. The more new and exciting experiences that your make your GSD a part of, the better. I can't stress enough how important it is that you continue to socialize your GSD puppy during the first several months of its life. Discovery of new experiences and teaching the puppy to deal with them positively and confidently is highly important.

Many studies have been done that show the critical socialization period for a puppy is from eight to sixteen weeks of life. During this period it is essential that the German Shepherd puppy safely and positively experience as many new things as possible. Some of these experiences will be a little stressful, but you must support your puppy during these times and encourage them throughout the entire socialization process.

Here's a short example of how simple this process can be: Several years ago I was walking my 10 wk old GSD puppy, Cera, around our block on one windy day. Out of nowhere a small piece of trash paper blew by both of us, quietly startling her. She watched the trash as it continued to blow up against the curb, changed direction and blew closer toward us. Curious, she wanted to check out the new object that was moving around on the curb in front of us and now moving toward us but unsure as how exactly to react to the new object.

It was obvious to me that she was curious enough to want to check it out, but also fearful enough that she wanted to run away from it. I waited to see what she would do. She watched the object as it moved around, sometimes backing up slightly, sometimes moving toward it. I allowed her the time to observe the paper and waited to see exactly what she was going to do about it.

It seemed longer, but I'm sure that it was only a few minutes until she decided to slowly approach that piece of trash paper. What a brave girl. Eventually she pounced on the paper and give it a good shake and chewing before I finally took it away from her! I praised her profusely. Not for tearing up the paper but more importantly for approaching it after her initial fear response. She met her fear of this new and strange object face to face and overcame it. In future experiences with new and strange objects she would now be more confident. Over time and with more and more positive experiences like this one, Cera grew up to be a very emotionally strong, good-tempered and confident GSD. As the owner you play a major role in providing this confidence for your new GSD puppy.

It is extremely important to socialize your German Shepherd starting at as young an age as possible to make them more comfortable with other people and dogs and able to feel comfortable and confident in strange environments. Puppy obedience classes, also referred to as "Puppy Kindergarten", are an incredible means to introduce your puppy to the world outside of your home. This is both a prime GSD socialization experience as well as a wonderful training and bonding opportunity.

Puppy obedience training classes are set up in such a way as to teach the German Shepherd puppy the actual commands, but also to teach you, the owner, how to train the puppy specific behaviors and manners, now and in the future. Your dog will discover the link between your commands and the desired behavior. It is entirely possible that you can train GSD puppy at home as well but compared to all the great socialization lessons your GSD puppy can gain from the puppy classes, there really is no comparison. In fact, I highly recommend it.

The author, a lifelong dog lover and German Shepherd owner, has been a German Shepherd breeder for over to 15 years. For more information and articles covering other German Shepherd related topics, feel free to visit: total-german-shepherd.com

Interested in other purebred dog breeds? Visit: pedigreedpups.com

Training your dog well will make it a much better family companion, especially in households where there are young children. Many studies have shown that proper dog training makes a big impact when it comes to cutting down the number of dog bits and other behavior problems encountered by dog owning households.

When considering training your own dog, or having someone else help you train it, there are certain basic commands that must be mastered in order for a dog to be considered truly trained. These basic commands include:

• Heel – it is important that any dog learn to walk beside its owner on a loose lead, neither pulling ahead nor lagging behind.

• No – the word no is one word that all dogs must learn. Training your dog to respond to this important word can save you a ton of trouble.

• Sit – Training your dog to sit on command is a vital part of any dog training program.

• Stay – A well trained dog should remain where his or her owner commands, so stay is a very important command in dog training.

• Down – Lying down on command is more than just a cute trick; it is a key component of any successful dog training program.

Dog training does much more than just create an obedient, willing companion. Training your dog properly actually strengthens the bond that already exists between dog and handler. Dogs are pack animals, and they look to their pack leader to tell them what to do. The key to successful dog training is to set yourself up as that pack leader.

Establishing yourself as pack leader is a very important concept for any potential dog trainer to understand. There is only one leader in every pack of dogs, and the owner must establish him or herself as the dominant animal. Failure to do so leads to all manner of behavior problems.

A properly trained dog will respond properly to all the owner's commands, and will not display anxiety, displeasure or confusion. A good dog training program will focus on allowing the dog to learn just what is expected of it, and will use positive reinforcement to reward desired behaviors.

Giving the dog a job is more important than you may think. Dogs were originally bred by humans to do important work, such as herding sheep, guarding property and protecting people. Many dogs today have no important job to do, and this can often lead to boredom and neurotic behavior.

Basic obedience training, and ongoing training sessions, provide the dog with an important job to do. This is especially important for high energy breeds like German shepherds and border collies. Training sessions are a great way for these high energy dogs to use up their extra energy and simply to enjoy themselves.

Incorporating playtime into your dog training sessions is a great way to prevent both yourself and your dog from becoming bored. Playing with your dog helps to strengthen the all important bond between you – the pack leader – and your dog.

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Choosing a rescue dog can be a difficult choice -all of our Spanish strays are so grateful and lovable, and make such wonderful pets, I wonder why anybody would ever want to buy from a breeder.

If you have made up your mind to take one of our strays, or indeed, any other rescued dog, do think very carefully about which kind of dog would suit your particular lifestyle. The last thing an unwanted dog needs is to find a loving home only to discover that after a short while he is unloved again and considered a nuisance.

If you are at home a good deal of the time and are active, there is no reason not to enjoy long walks with a larger active dog providing you have the space to accommodate him.

Many large dogs such as greyhounds or big heavy dogs do not need as much exercise as smaller highly strung dogs- and greyhounds in particular usually make docile pets.

If you work part-time (you really should not consider taking a dog if there is nobody at home all day) a smaller less active dog would not require such lengthy walks although many small dogs are highly active. You should ask advice to the dog's particular needs from the refuge where the dog has been looked after.

Don't expect miracles when your dog first arrives. He will be very confused especially if he is one of our Spanish dogs who may well have spent years in the refuge or tied up somewhere.

With quiet love and understanding he will settle. Just give him his own time and space to adjust. So many people want to make a big fuss of the dog when he arrives, inviting friends and family to meet him - but there will be plenty of time in the future for this. Leave him be, just speaking in a friendly tone to him as you go about the house. The less fuss you make- so will he.

Another consideration when deciding which rescue dog to choose is whether you have time to spend grooming a long coat. If not stick to a dog with short hair as long coats need regular attention to keep them healthy.

Dog or Bitch?

I personally really don't have a preference.

All our dogs are neutered before arriving in England for rehoming, and they all have distinct personalities.

If you already have one dog it is usually best to choose a second one of the opposite sex, to avoid competion as to who is going to be "top dog".

If your reason for taking on a rescued dog is to provide your existing dog with a friend, please be sure that you have the patience and ability to persevere in the event that the first dog does not like or accept his new friend.

A couple of dogs have been returned to me for this reason, not through any fault of their own, just because the owners had not thought it through first, and all it achieve was to make an insecure little dog even more insecure.

Young or Old?

Lastly do consider an "oldie" if you can. They are usually wonderful pets and great characters. It is so sad that they are forgotten especially when

if like our Spanish strays they have been confined to a refuge for years. Some say they are institutionalised and will not settle but this simply is not true. I have rehomed several (whom were thought to be quite ancient) but am pleased to say they are still going strong after five or six years!

Whichever dog you decide on make sure you have given the matter some careful thought.

Think carefully before taking him

Do not expect too much from him at first

Give him lots of love and you will receive lots in return!

European Animal Welfare rescues strays from Spain.
Please visit we offer animal rescue stories, and Animal pictures.

If you were to take a step into some fancy pet boutiques in New York City, then you might do a double take at the prices. It is not unusual at all to find coats the size of a person's arm going for at least $60, and sometimes even more. Is it worth paying that much for dog clothes? Some say an emphatic yes and even boast about how much they spend on dressing their dog. That's all well and good if you have the extra dough to throw around, but for the rest of us it doesn't make sense to spend that much money. So can the average person get boutique clothes without breaking the bank? The good news is that it is possible to get boutique quality clothes at an affordable price.

The first step to finding affordable boutique quality clothes for your dog is simple…don't go to a boutique. Sure they're pretty and well decorated, but you're going to pay for the ambiance. The problem is you might not find what you want at a cheaper big name store like PetSmart or PetCo. So where do you go? Online. The internet stores have a much lower overhead than brick-and-mortar stores, so they can charge less for the fancy fashions. Simply go to one of the major search engines and start looking. You will find there are literally millions of sites selling dog clothing, so you have plenty from which to choose.

However, you do need to be careful of where you choose to buy. There are easy ways to tell if an online store is a good choice for you aside from looking at prices. Make sure they have a return/exchange policy, and make sure you understand it. Take a look at the site itself. Does it look neat and well maintained? Do they update they're inventory information regularly? Do they make it easy to contact them (i.e. they have a phone number and email)? If so, then it's safe to assume that whoever runs the store is willing to work hard to get and keep you as a customer. The online world of commerce can seem daunting, but it is the perfect place for the average dog-loving consumer to get some great boutique quality dog clothes.

Grant Carroll proud father of three dogs and co-owner of http://www.littlepamperedpets.com with Dog Clothes and Small Dog Sweaters.

Also visit Elizabeth Austin for Wholesale Dog Clothes and Wholesale Pet Supplies

Short-haired dog breeds have many advantages over long-haired breeds. One of these is that short-haired dog breeds do not shed as much hair. While a shaggier coat makes a dog look fluffier and aesthetically more pleasing, it should be remembered that more hair means more time spent on bathing and grooming. Short-hairs are also good because pests can not hide on them very well, so they are better from a hygienic point of view.

Here are some grooming tips for short-haired dog breeds.

- Brush your dog regularly, preferably at least once a day. Make sure to brush against the hair growth direction to monitor for pests.

- Stainless steel combs are best for short-haired dogs. Slicker brushes are better for medium to long-haired dogs. Use a flea comb during the summer days to make certain your dog has not attracted those parasites. A bristle brush can be a final touch for adding gloss to the dog's coat.

- In case you dog has a tendency to avoid being brushed because of dislike for the process, it might be a good idea to try brushing immediately after play time. Start gently by brushing in the hair growth direction. Remember that successful training means frequent rewards. Give your dog a treat after the first brushing is complete. Increase the length of the brushing sessions little by little to allow the dog to get used to it.

- Brushing is also important before giving your dog a bath. Wet matted hair is only going to create problems later on, so make sure there is no matted hair before proceeding with the bath. Water and good shampoo in a sink works great for small dogs. Note that shampoos used by humans are not good for dogs and can cause irritation that might require medication. Start with the tail and wash the head the last. No one likes soap in his or her eyes.

- Rinse as many times as required to make sure that all residual shampoo has been rinsed out of the dog's coat.

- Short-haired dog breeds will naturally dry of faster. Usually a gentle towel rub is all that they need. Longer haired dogs need more attention and you should consider brushing the hair while it is drying to avoid tangles.

- If your dog tends to dislike baths then remember to reward it with a treat after each bathing session.

Her head lay in Mommy's lap, Mommy stroked her head. She always loved it when Mommy stroked her hair and sang to her. She loved the smell of Mommy. Sometimes she understood words Mommy used, her favorite was "bright-eyes." Mommy would kneel down next to her and say "bright-eyes" while rubbing her head or when she called her for a walk. Mommy would say other things but she knew she was "bright-eyes." It was her pack name, the name her Mommy used only for her.

"I'm tired, Mommy, and it hurts," she tried saying but knew that Mommy did not understand but some how she knew. She tried to take a deep breath but it hurt so much.

She felt another arm around her. It was Little Girl! She loved to play with Little Girl, Emcee was her pack name. They would run and run together in the wildflowers, through the wood, and chase the birds in the field. She remembered how small Emcee was when The Man brought her here. She was not impressed with Mommy back then, she tried to laugh but it hurt. Mommy never licked Emcee! How was Little Girl to keep clean if she was not properly licked? So, when Mommy would bring Emcee outside and work in the dirt and was not looking, she would lick Emcee clean.

Mommy was singing the Bright Eyes Song now and stroking her head. Where was Big Girl? Where was Boy? She hated when the pack was not together. She looked up at Mommy with fluid brown eyes, "Where are they?" Mommy just bent down and kissed her head, she smelled of flowers. She loved that smell. Then she remembered that Big Girl and Boy had left the pack, they were grown. She missed them.

What was that smell? She raised her head a bit. She knew the smell, and loved it's promise. It was of wood and small animals. It was the smell of the chase. She found herself running, running fast after a rabbit. "I'm going to catch it this time, Mommy" and she was off through a never ending field of wildflowers.

"Mommy?"

"Yes, M-C, Mishka is living her sweetest dream."

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Similar to a horse or dog whisperer, a Cat Whisperer is a person who relates particularly well with cats. A Cat Whisperer has unusual luck and success with cats. Often people bring cats or a single cat will just "show up" at their home. This cat will adopt the whisperer.

For myself, I've had Persians and black cats mostly, show up and move in. Sometimes, the cat's people moved and abandoned the cat. Other times, the cat just decided it liked it better at my house.

Some say that a Cat Whisperer is a cat therapist, but in truth, most Cat Whisperers are good cat behaviorist. Most Cat Whisperers have never had any formal training, and come by it naturally. They understand a cat's way of thinking and work with its existing behaviors to achieve the desired results.

Some cats that have been abused will only respond to a Cat Whisperer. Other people may try to help the cat and only see a scared cat with a long memory of abuse and hurt. These cats often tragically end up in kill shelters. It is tragic because the cats have already endured so much. Many of these poor cats were once loved and coddled pets. They were abandoned, mistreated by children or cruel adults, terrorized by dogs and possibly even tortured.

When a cat is this badly damaged emotionally and physically, it takes great patience and care to bring the poor cat back to some semblance of normalcy around people.

Morgen Marshall, a cat lover and trainer, invites you into her world of cats. She created a website dedicated to making the relationship between cats and people harmonious and healthy, For the Love of Cats. It is a place for people facing difficulties in their relationships with cats to come and find the answers they need from someone they can trust.